Mulch:

Mulching will keep the moisture in the ground and help protect your trees and shrubs from drying out over winter.

Mulching will give new roots more time to develop for recently planted trees and shrubs. It will help minimize the effect of freezing and thawing of the soil during the late winter and early spring season.
You will need to apply a four to six inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree or shrub. This will prevent heaving by maintaining a more constant soil temperature. You do not want to mulch up against the trunk of the tree or main stem of the shrub.
Mulch also prolongs plant dormancy in the spring and reduces the chance of late spring frost injury to new leaves and flowers.

Sunscald:

Sunscald is an injury to the trunk of young trees. Sometimes called Southwest injury, because it usually occurs on the southwest side of young trees. Sunscald occurs on warm winter days as the sun shines and heats up the bark on the tree trunk, cells within the tree break dormancy and become active. When the sun sets and the temperatures get colder and the bark temperature drops rapidly, the active cells are killed. This bark may look sunken, cracked or discolored. By spring, the discolored bark may crack and fall off. Young trees, newly planted trees, and thin-barked trees (cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash, plum) are most susceptible to Sunscald. You can protect these trees from Sunscald by wrapping the trunk with tree wrap.

Tree wrap is put on in the fall and must be removed in the spring to prevent disease and insect damage. Your young trees may need to be wrapped every year until their bark has thickened.

Water:

Stop watering once the ground is frozen; trees and shrubs no longer absorb water after that time.
Salt Damage:

Salt that is used for de-icing sidewalks and roads in winter can cause damage to your trees and shrubs. Damage occurs when salt is deposited on dormant stems, buds and needles of trees and shrubs. Salt can damage roots, foliage; can cause stem injury and reduce growth. To help prevent damage to trees and shrubs install a screen to act as a barrier. A screen can also protect your plants from wind and sun.

Pest Control:

Rabbits, mice and deer can cause damage to plants in Winter. These animals feed on the tender bark and foliage during winter months. Clear away weeds, leaves, tall grass and fruit from around your yard and around trees and shrubs. This will help reduce the nesting material and deter pests from making their winter home at your home. You can also put up tree guards around your tree trunks.

For products to help you protect your plants, trees and shrubs in winter, please visit Henry Fields Seed and Nursery

Need any other tips for your winter garden? Click here to send us your question!

Bringing in your house plants before it gets too cold out will help your plants avoid the shock of sudden changes in  temperature, humidity and light.

Here are a few tips to help your plants adjust to living indoors again:

Before bringing in your plants:

• Clean your windows inside and out. Clean windows let in more sunlight.
• Move plants in the shade about 2 weeks before bringing them indoors. This will help prepare them for the drop in light in your home. Once inside your house your houseplants may have some yellowing leaves or dropping leaves from not having enough light. You may need to add light from a fluorescent glow light.
• Soak your pots up to their rims in a tub full of lukewarm water to force insects like ants, sow bugs, millipedes, and ground beetles to the surface. Insects that are living in the soil will either drown or float to the surface so you can remove them.
• Inspect for other insects. Other insects like aphids, spider mites, scales and slugs will be happily living in the foliage of your plant. Inspect the foliage thoroughly. Wash the plants leaves carefully with water before bringing the plant inside. You could also use
  Plant Guardian Houseplant Insecticidal Soap to wash off the leaves.
• Stop fertilizing. Most plants need a rest period, or dormancy. Fertilizing when plants aren’t actively growing results in a buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil that can damage plant roots.
• Don’t over water You probably watered your container plants every day during the summer but indoors they will not require that much water. Let the soil surface get dry to the touch before watering.

Plants that have outgrown their pots over their summer vacation will need to be re-potted.

To check for crowded roots, turn the pot upside down while supporting the plant with one hand on the surface of the soil. Ease the plant out of the pot. You may need to give the bottom of the pot a few taps to loosen the root ball.  If there is a mass of roots and very little soil, then you will need to repot into a larger container. If the root ball looks good but there is a heavy top growth you may want to prune the top.

Add Pot Stickers to your new and old pots to help keep insect infestations to a minimum.

Got any tips for your fellow gardeners? Click here to Contact BornToGarden.com and share your best tips with our community!

 
They can blend in so well with the green leaves of your tomato plant, you may not even notice them; however, you will notice the  damage to the leaves and stems. They will eat holes in the leaves and at times eat the entire leaf leaving no stems.  During July and August they might even chew on the fruit of tomatoes and eggplants. Tomato hornworms have also been known to eat peppers and potatoes.

How do I know if I have Hornworms?

You will most likely spot the damaged leaves and stems at the top of the plant before you spot the hornworm. Hornworms will feed on the inside of the plant during hot sunny days and move to the outside in the morning and evening. You may notice large, black droppings (frass) that will pile up on the ground below the affected plants.

 
How do I get rid of Hornworms?

Pick them off using gloves and crush them with your foot or cut them in half with a garden tool.

If your Hornworm has small white cocoons attached to its body then leave them alone. The cocoons contain the larvae of a parasitic wasp that is a natural parasite of the hornworm. The wasps will kill the hornworms when they come out of their cocoons and search out other hornworms to attack.

Rototilling your garden after the season will kill the larvae that has burrowed into the soil of your garden.

Looking for more information about growing tomatoes or getting rid of tomato pests? Visit our Tomato Page.

Got a gardening tip for our readers? Click here to let us know about it!

Not all insects are pests.

There are many beneficial insects that you should welcome into your flower or vegetable garden.

Be careful using broad spectrum pesticides! You may kill the insects that are helping you keep other pests away. Insects also benefit your garden by pollinating your plants.
 
How to attract and keep good bugs in your garden:

Food
Its cheaper and easier to the good bugs you already have in your garden than to buy them at a nursery.

Many beneficial insects need to sip flower nectar to survive. Many beneficial insects need flower nectar to survive. To keep these insects in your garden, make sure to plant nectar producing flowers and a variety of plants that will bloom as many months during the year as possible. Plants in the cabbage, carrot and sunflower family will attract beneficial insects.

Not-so-Good Bugs
Ants can prevent good bugs from controlling aphids in your garden, so try to keep ants in check.

Don’t use persistent, broad-spectrum, contact insecticides.
These kill off good and bad bugs, but the bad ones will usually find their way back to your garden faster than the good bugs. So you’ll end up having to use more and more insecticide.

Pamper Your Spiders. Cover bare dirt with dead leaves or grass clippings to provide shelter for spiders. Spiders are the number one insect predator. 

Here is a list of some other beneficial insects:

• Dragonflies appear in a variety of colors. They have long narrow bodies, large compound eyes and four transparent wings.  They can be as big as 6 inches long and they eat mosquitoes, aphids and gnats.
• Praying mantises are brownish insects with wings. They are 3-4 inches long. They eat moths, flies and mosquitoes.
• Ground beetles are about 1 inch long and are iridescent black or brown. They eat soil-dwelling pests such as slugs and snails.
• Ladybugs or Lady beetles are the most familiar insect predator. Most ladybugs are round to oval with bright colors and are often spotted. Ladybugs eat aphids, mites, scales and insect eggs. Lady bugs are very effective in reducing infestations
• Pirate bugs are ½ inch long and are black and silver. They will eat spider mites, caterpillars and thrips.
• Soldier beetles are ½ inch long flat bodied beetle with a narrow, black abdomen and bright red head. They eat cucumber beetles, aphids, caterpillars and grasshopper eggs.
• Assassin bugs are ½ to 1 inch long light brown-green bugs that have a cone-shaped head and a long antennae. They eat a variety of pest in your garden including flies, mosquitoes, beetles and large caterpillars.

• Green Lacewings  are one of the best insects to have in your garden. The green lacewings vary in length from about ½ to ¾ inch. Some have gold or copper colored eyes. You can easily recognize their light green bodies with large clear oval shaped wings that they fold above their bodies. They eat aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, small caterpillars and the eggs of several kinds of destructive beetles.

 Do your best to keep good bugs in your garden and you’ll have a successful garden!

Do you have a tip for gardeners? Send it to us and we may post it here to help other gardners with common planting questions and issues. Click here to contact BornToGarden.com

Here is a list of 20 plants you need to have in your vegetable garden. These plants may surprise you! I had no idea that these plants not only looked beautiful and tasted wonderful, but also can help deter pests and bugs from the garden.

1. Basil - A favorite herb of mine anyway – and I already had some in my garden of course! Basil repels aphids, flies, mosquitos, and mites. It also has fungicidal properties. If you plant basil around your tomato plants, you won’t have to worry about icky hornworms.
2. Borage - This one I was really not familiar with, but found out that it is an herb sometimes called the starflower. The leaves taste like fresh cucumber and are used in salads and soups especially in Germany. The flowers are sweet like honey and are often used as edible decoration. It is also good for planting around your tomatos as it repels tomato worms.
3. Catnip – Cats love it, but ants, fleas and mosquitoes hate it! I see this herb in the supermarket and until now have just passed it by not knowing what to use it for. Next time I see it, I’m buying it!
4. Chamomile – Great for a relaxing pre-bedtime tea, the camomile plant keeps cabbage moths out of your garden.
5. Chives – A baked potato isn’t the same without them, but aphids don’t feel the same! Plant chives especially around your roses and lettuce.
6. Feverfew - A really pretty flower that almost looks like a daisy, and found in old gardens. It is often used as a medicinal herb. For my purposes, it is known to keep moths away. I’ll put some in pots by my front door and see if it truly works!
7. Lavender – Smells fantastic, great for making relaxation teas AND keeps slugs out of the garden. Excellent news as I am not a slug fan at all.
8. Marigolds – These are traditional flowers that my mom always planted among our vegetable plants in the gardens we had as kids. Bugs cannot stand the smell of marigolds, so plant them liberally around your garden. French and African varieties also keep nematodes out of the soil.
9. Mint – Another great herb that no kitchen garden should be without anyway. But did you know that mint plants repel aphids, cabbage moths, and cabbage worms? I sure didn’t!
10. Nasturtium – A plant I’ve read about in magazines but didn’t realize is quite prevalent. This pretty little flowering plants keeps away aphids and whiteflies. Be sure to plant these around fruit trees, cucumbers and squash.
11. Onion – If you love to cook, you love the onion. We have lots of wild onions in our neck of the woods. Onions keep ants at bay. Which is good because we also have lots of those!
12. Oregano – Growing up half Italian, I believe I have oregano streaming through my blood. Either way, its great in tomato sauce and italian dressing, and oregano plants keep away cucumber beetles.
13. Pennyroyal - In the mint family, pennyroyal leaves have a strong spearmint smell. Ants don’t like it, so I definitely do!
14. Petunia – I knew a little girl named Petunia once…but I digress. Pretty flowers and the added benefit of repelling aphids, leafhoppers, and Mexican bean beetles.
15. Radish – A great entry for salad ingredients, the radish is smartly planted around cucumbers and squash to keep away beetles.
16. Rosemary – I love rosemary bread and so always have fresh rosemary around. Plant this in your garden to ward off the cabbage moth, bean beetle and carrot fly.
17. Rue - As in “you’ll rue the day” I guess, because this medicinal herb smells terrible! But it does keep away Japanese beetles (and gardeners…yuck!). ***GOOD TO KNOW: don’t plant rue anywhere near your basil – they don’t play well, and so neither plant will grow.
18. Tansy - Another pretty little flower, Tansy is disagreeable to ants.
19. Thyme – One of the herbs we can’t do without, Thyme plants deter cabbage worms and slugs.
20. Tomato – Yep, you’ve probably got these in your garden already. And if you also have asparagus, plant them together. The tomato plants will ward off asparagus beetles.

If any of this information surprises you, you’re not alone. We’ve always had gardens and while we knew about some of these helpful plants, we were surprised by a great many too.

If you have any great garden tips, please send them to us using our handy contact form or by leaving a comment on this post. We’d love to hear from you!

1. Fence them out
2. Scare them out
3. Smell them out

Keep in mind that since every garden is different, and the area surrounding your garden will have its own unique kinds of pests and vermin, you may have to try more than one of the following suggestions in order to find what type of animal repellant works best for your particular garden situation.

Fence them out

Fencing out unwanted animals can be a bit of work, but it is probably your best option in keeping your homegrown vegetables or garden flowers all to yourself. Also, once a fence is built, you need only maintain it and it can last many years.

Fencing suggestion: wire fencing, also called chicken wire, is your easiest and least expensive fencing option.

• Deer supposedly cannot jump any higher than 8 feet unless they have an uphill advantage. Install a fence that is at least 8 feet high – or  at least 6 feet high with a slope outward at a 45 degree angle. The bottom of the fence should be at ground level or below, to prevent deer from getting underneath. They’re wiley, those deer – and smart when it comes to getting free food from your garden buffet. You can also install an electric fence. An 8 foot high solid fence would block the deer’s view from seeing your garden (but they can still smell it).
• Rabbits don’t climb buy they can jump. Luckily, not that high. Rabbits are burrowing animals, but the burrows are rather shallow. Install a wire fence (chicken wire) that rises at least 3 feet high and extends a minimum of 10 inches underground. The 10 inches underground will deter rabbits from digging underneath the fence.
• Woodchucks(aka: groundhogs), like raccoons, are good climbers – but they also burrow. That’s what you call “multi-talented”. If you leave about 18 inches at the top of your fence unattached, it will be ”floppy”, and discourage woodchucks, groundhogs and raccoons from climbing over. Your fence should be a minimum of 4 feet high, and at least 10 inches straight down underground. NO EXTRA CHARGE HINT: Dig your fence trench at least 8 inches wide, then bend the fencing 8 inches forward, making an “L” shape. With the bottom “L” facing outward or away from the gardent, pin it securely to the ground. This is some added insurance to prevent the woodchuck (groundhog) from burrowing under the fence.

Scare them out

• Scarecrows: Fake owl or snakes, also know in gardening circles as “scarecrows”, will work for a while, but eventually animals will figure it out. Then they’ll just snicker as they make off with your lettuce, carrots and rutabagas.
• Beach balls, balloons, reflective mylar tape, pinwheels: Place objects in your garden that will move around as the wind blows. Movement like this scares the hay out of woodchucks (groundhogs) and the like.
• Visit your garden frequently: Woodchucks (groundhogs) are also easily frightened by humans.
• Motion-activated lights, alarms and sprinklers. No one likes that kind of surprise.

Smell them out

Animals depend on their sense of smell to determine what is safe to eat. Strong odors or undesirable scents will deter animals from your garden and encourage them to find another desirable location for food. Here are some of the odors you can actually buy and use to keep animals out of your garden.

Deer:

• Grate Ivory or Irish Spring soap, then sprinkle around your garden. Apparently deer don’t like “clean”.
• Coyote Urine - encircle your garden with it. Coyotes and deer are like oil and water.

Woodchucks (groundhogs):

• Fox Urine or Wolf Urine – encircle your garden with it. If it comes down to eat and be eaten, groundhogs will move on.

Rabbits:

• Collect human hair clippings or hair from your brushes and spread it around your garden. If you don’t have any hair, get some from your neighbor.
• Sprinkle Fox or Wolf Urine around the perimeter of your garden.
• Sprinkle dried blood meal, vinegar or hot pepper flakes around the perimeter of your garden.

For those living in apartments or condominium complexes, cats and dogs might be the pests you deal with. Cats often see gardens, even container gardens, as convenient litter boxes. Not so convenient for the gardener. Click here to see your options for keeping dogs and cats our of your garden.

Click here to let us know if you have a good method for keeping unwanted animals out of your garden. We would love to hear from you. For more information, visit our Pest Control page.

Click here to shop for animal repellants.