Ick! What was I going to do? I obviously had to get rid of it or it could ruin my tomato crops. 

          I quickly ran inside and grabbed the grabber, an extendable arm , to pick up the pest. Racing back to the garden I grabbed the first one, plucked him from his perch on the tomato leaf, ran out of the garden and flung him as far away from the garden as possible. I returned to my precious plants and discovered a second one munching away! This one too I grabbed, but he was strong and clung to the plant. I ripped him from the leaf with a mighty pull and flung him as far from the garden as well.

          I breathed a sigh of relief. For now my garden is safe, but for how long will it remain that way?

Click here to find more information on how to get rid of Hornworms on your tomato plants.

Use a string line to support heavy corn stalks

Several days ago my corn, which I had carefully planted, grown from seed, and have grown quite fond of blew down in the wind! What to do? If I let it stay there it would die on the ground or I could try something…

I decided to run a string line attached on both sides of the fence on both sides of the corn. This kept the corn upright; little wobbly, but stable. Then I added a bag of soil around the corn stalks and some of the exposed roots to keep it upright.

I went to bed that night hoping that my corn would be alright. The next day I saw that the corn looked somewhat better and some of it was beginning to stand on its own! The day after that the corn wasn’t leaning on the line anymore and was standing straight and tall. My quick thinking and quick actions had saved my precious corn! Now it is even stronger and is still growing taller every day. The golden colored tassels on the top are beginning to emerge. I have a feeling that my corn will not only continue to survive, but also thrive.

Then a pop up rain & windstorm came and knocked down eighty percent of my corn right down to the ground.

My first thought was, that’s it!  It’s over! My corn is going to die and all that hard work of planting and weeding was wasted.

My second thought was, I not going to give up that easy!

So, after the rain stopped I went out to my garden and gently picked up the corn. Unfortunately it wouldn’t stay up on its own it kept flopping down.

I decided to run a string line attached from one side of the fence to the other on both sides of the corn. This kept the corn upright but still leaning. Then I went to the garden store and bought a bag of soil to build up the area around the base of the stalk.

 This seems to be working for now. I guess the test will come with the next windstorm.

I thought I did everything right! I put up two fences around my garden to keep out animals. One fence was a made of three foot chicken wire which I buried about one foot deep and the other was a four foot wire fence that was loose on top so animals could not climb up and get in. I planted six tomato plants, six lettuce, six cucumbers, and six zucchini plants. Everything was great. I mulched with the grass clippings from my lawn and watered regularly.

Then one morning I went out to watch my garden grow and notice all my zucchini plants where gone. Whatever got into my garden ate just my zucchini plants and left the rest of my garden alone.

The only thing I can think of is something got into my garden started chomping away on my zucchini and then got interrupted by a noise.

If I didn’t think of something fast I might lose the whole garden to an unknown critter. I can’t stay up all night and keep guard over my garden! I have a motion detector light that is close by, but clearly that did not help. I need something that moves and makes noise but what? Later that day when I was rinsing out plastic and tins for recycling, it came to me. Pie tins!

And that’s what I did. I hung pie tins on all sides of my garden. They make noise in the slightest of breeze and if something was trying to climb my fence they would surely make a clatter. I also added a small beach ball to roll around gently inside the garden just in case those critters get past my pie tins.

It’s been a month since I installed my pie tins and my vegetables are flourishing including the zucchini plants that I replanted.

I still don’t know what ate my zucchini plants but I’m sure glad I decided to make a pie!

Got a gardening question or issue that you just can’t figure out? Click here to send us a note with your garden problem and we’ll do our best to find you a good solution!

]]> http://www.borntogarden.com/2009/07/one-more-vegetable-garden-problem-solved/feed/ 0 http://www.borntogarden.com/2009/04/planning-your-vegetable-garden/ http://www.borntogarden.com/2009/04/planning-your-vegetable-garden/#comments Fri, 03 Apr 2009 00:42:02 +0000 Planter1 http://www.borntogarden.com/?p=108 The first step to planning your vegetable garden is to figure out what and how much vegetables you would like to grow. For example, if you like tomatoes or cucumbers make sure to plant enough for you, your friends, and your neighbors because everybody loves homegrown vegetables!

The next step is to plan your garden out on paper.  You will need to make sure you do not plant your vegetables too close together or too close to your garden fence. You will want to be able to move around them to weed and pick your harvest.

Step number three will be deciding whether you will buy already grown little seedlings or start your garden from seeds. If it is early in the season you can start your vegetables from seeds. When you choose your seeds make sure to check the planting zone on the back of the seed packet. You can purchase seed packets in many different stores including garden centers, grocery stores, and home centers.  

If you decide to start your garden indoor from seeds, you can use small paper cups and some potting soil. Following the directions on the seed packets will get you off to a good start. It will take several days for the seeds to germinate, but soon you will see little leaves and stems start to poke out of the dirt and develop.

Whether you purchase seedlings or seeds you will need to wait until all danger of frost is gone for your area to start planting your seedlings into your garden. Make sure to check the spacing of the plants from the seed packets or the plant tabs. You may also want to attach the empty seed packet or plant tab to the area of the plants you have planted. This will help you remember what plants have been planted where.

If you follow these steps you are on your way to a productive, healthy garden.

You don’t need a big backyard to have a vegetable garden. If you don’t have an area around your home to plant vegetables, consider container gardening. You can grow many delicious vegetables or herbs in containers in very little space. You can use a window sill, deck, patio, or porch.  All you need is sunlight and rich soil.

If this is your first year for a garden you will need to choose your site.

Sunlight:

Choose a site that gets a lot of sunlight. You will want at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day.  Although 8-10 hours is much better.

Close to Home:

Pick a site that is close to your house. Having a site close to your house will be easier for you to water, weed, and keep critters out.

Soil:

Loose, well drained, and rich soil is what you will need to have a successful garden. Adding organic matter will improve clay or sandy soil.  

Water:

You will want to locate your garden near water. The closer to the spigot or other water source, the more chances of you watering your garden often.

Avoid low spots, like at the bottom of a hill. These areas will stay cooler longer and water may pool in the area. 

If you are planting your garden on the same site as last season, remove all dead plant material. Add organic matter and turn the soil. Don’t forget to rotate the crops from last season. This will avoid soil borne diseases and maintain a good soil balance.

For container gardening, you can use almost any type of container. The size of your container will depend on the vegetable that you will be growing and also the spot that you have for your container to be placed. If you are looking to grow tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, you could use a 5 gallon container. Remember your container will need drainage holes and about 1 inch of gravel on the bottom to help with drainage.

Good soil drainage is important to growing bulbs. If your soil has a lot of clay you can improve it by adding compost and peat moss.

Here are some more useful tips about planting your spring bulbs in the fall:

• Purchase high quality bulbs.
• If you are looking to group you flowers you can plant your bulbs in a trench instead of digging individual holes.
• Check the package label for the correct depth.
• If you have no directions, go ahead and dig the holes a depth of about 3 times the height of the bulb.
• Make sure the soil is loose and add organic matter.
• Add bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole mixing it in the soil.
• Place the bulb in the bottom of the hole, right side up. (point up, roots down)
• Refill the hole, tapping down the soil lightly.
• Water thoroughly. A little more than usual for about 1 week.
• Place mulch, pine needles or straw on top of the ground where you planted your bulbs. This will give your bulbs protection from the freezing ground.

Don’t forget to remove the mulch in the spring!

Need some gardening advice or just a useful tip or two? Leave us a comment with your gardening question or click here to contact us. Either way, we’ll give you personalized gardening advice.

But if you’re like us, you may want to keep your hands dirty and your thumbs green, so here are some activities for gardeners during the winter (reprinted courtesy of: Emmitsberg.net)

Activities for Gardeners in the Winter Months:

• It is a good time to clean and repair your garden tools. Check the rototiller, lawn mower and sharpen tools.
• Transplant and maintain your houseplants.

Divide some of your plants to start as gifts for upcoming holidays such as Easter and Mother’s Day.

Starting African violets from leaf cuttings is an easy skill to learn. Select a leaf of medium size, slide your finger down the leaf stem and push down at the base. The stem should break away from the parent plant. Leave the stem on the leaf, and dip the stem in rooting powder. Insert the stem at an angle into the soil mix. Place the leaf and pot in a plastic bag, blow in some air and tie it shut. Keep the bag in bright light but not direct sun. If you see mold or moisture in the bag, open it for a few hours to let the excess water evaporate. The stem will root in about a month. When the leaves are an inch long open the bag. In 6 to 8 weeks small leaves will form at the base of the leaf. When they get to be half the size of the mother leaf, carefully separate them from the mother leaf and repot the plants individually. The plants should blossom in six months, if given bright light, warm temperatures and fertilizer.

• Build a bird feeder or purchase one. Watching birds in the winter is a great activity for the whole family. Buy an inexpensive bird identification book, which will make this activity even more fun. Try putting out different birdseed mixes to see whether different birds come to feed.
• Sprout seeds for eating. They do not require light for germination and are very nutritious. You can buy alfalfa seeds at a health food store and they will sprout in a short period of time.
• Now is the time to get a bargain on Amaryllis and Paper Whites. Buy a couple and start them at different times to have a continual bloom during the winter.
• Consider purchasing or even building an “Indoor Grow Lab” that will allow you to start plants from seeds, propagate root cuttings, raise flowering foliage and vegetable plants, force plants to flower and experiment with how plants respond to light. Instructions for building a lab are available at the Extension Office or library, if you are handy with woodworking tools. The cost will probably be $100 – $150.
• Visit a local nursery and drink in the beauty of what is growing and blooming.
• Attend a flower show in your local area – they usually begin to be scheduled in February and March.

Another important winter gardening activity is to start planning your spring planting. How about re-designing the layout of your garden and plotting which plants will go where. And check out local and online nurseries for end of season sales on bulbs, seeds, equipment and more.

As a gardener, what do you do during the winter? Leave a comment on this article or click here to use our handy contact form to let us know! We would love to hear from you.

Mulch:

Mulching will keep the moisture in the ground and help protect your trees and shrubs from drying out over winter.

Mulching will give new roots more time to develop for recently planted trees and shrubs. It will help minimize the effect of freezing and thawing of the soil during the late winter and early spring season.
You will need to apply a four to six inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree or shrub. This will prevent heaving by maintaining a more constant soil temperature. You do not want to mulch up against the trunk of the tree or main stem of the shrub.
Mulch also prolongs plant dormancy in the spring and reduces the chance of late spring frost injury to new leaves and flowers.

Sunscald:

Sunscald is an injury to the trunk of young trees. Sometimes called Southwest injury, because it usually occurs on the southwest side of young trees. Sunscald occurs on warm winter days as the sun shines and heats up the bark on the tree trunk, cells within the tree break dormancy and become active. When the sun sets and the temperatures get colder and the bark temperature drops rapidly, the active cells are killed. This bark may look sunken, cracked or discolored. By spring, the discolored bark may crack and fall off. Young trees, newly planted trees, and thin-barked trees (cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash, plum) are most susceptible to Sunscald. You can protect these trees from Sunscald by wrapping the trunk with tree wrap.

Tree wrap is put on in the fall and must be removed in the spring to prevent disease and insect damage. Your young trees may need to be wrapped every year until their bark has thickened.

Water:

Stop watering once the ground is frozen; trees and shrubs no longer absorb water after that time.
Salt Damage:

Salt that is used for de-icing sidewalks and roads in winter can cause damage to your trees and shrubs. Damage occurs when salt is deposited on dormant stems, buds and needles of trees and shrubs. Salt can damage roots, foliage; can cause stem injury and reduce growth. To help prevent damage to trees and shrubs install a screen to act as a barrier. A screen can also protect your plants from wind and sun.

Pest Control:

Rabbits, mice and deer can cause damage to plants in Winter. These animals feed on the tender bark and foliage during winter months. Clear away weeds, leaves, tall grass and fruit from around your yard and around trees and shrubs. This will help reduce the nesting material and deter pests from making their winter home at your home. You can also put up tree guards around your tree trunks.

For products to help you protect your plants, trees and shrubs in winter, please visit Henry Fields Seed and Nursery

Need any other tips for your winter garden? Click here to send us your question!

Preparing your vegetable garden in the fall will help make your gardening chores easier for next seasons spring plantings.

Fall is the time to prepare perennial vegetables for winters cold temperatures. Remove dead stems and foliage to prevent the spread of disease and insects. Cover with mulch to prevent root damage.

If you will be tilling your garden before winter, leave plants in the soil and till the beds under with organic matter, like leaves and grass clippings.  Diseased plants should not be tilled in the garden. Toss them in the trash.

Leaves and plants that are tilled into the garden in the fall season will have time to compost and release valuable nutrients to the soil as well as improving soil structure.

Tilling your garden in the fall will not only add valuable nutrients to the soil but will also expose many insects, larvae and pupae to the winters cold conditions ending their life cycle. Covering your tilled garden with mulch will help prevent the soil from washing away and will keep down the winter weeds.

If you will not be tilling your garden until spring, remove all plants and put them in your compost pile. Any diseased plants should be tossed in the trash.

Wait until spring planting time to apply fertilizer to your garden. Applying fertilizer in the fall will only wash away before it’s time to plant your garden.